Jun 11 2010

Saline Environments: Sky-Islands

A Lamoille Canyon Waterfall

One of Dozens of Several Hundred Foot Lamoille Canyon Waterfalls

This Post and accompanying gallery addition were intended to include a fairly comprehensive shoot of  two important examples of the sky-island aspect of saline environments: Great Basin National Park and Lamoille Canyon in the Ruby Mountains. Both are isolated high-elevation alpine ecosystems in Central Eastern Nevada.

Things often don’t go as projected, so I can only provide a few good images from what was a largely botched expedition. Fortunately, I can blame almost everything on the weird weather that we’ve been having this year. One of the problems with a winter that extends into June is that, eventually, it has to warm up, and when it does, Summer temperatures ensue without regard for those absent Spring months which have fallen by the wayside, discarded by mother nature. Then months of snow melt are compressed into days or weeks and havoc reigns at elevation.

The general concept of the sky-island is an easy one to explain. Millions of years ago the rocks of the great basin were pulled apart resulting in what is called basin-and-range topography: long north-south oriented high-elevation ridges separated by similarly oriented flat valleys. Thousands of years ago, when everywhere was cool and wet, all of this terrain was covered with either forest or alpine tundra above the forest. As global warming progressed, long before human utilization of fossil fuels, things heated up and dried out. The valleys became desert and the ranges became isolated, forested ecosystems. These small mountainous regions are similar because they share their beginnings in a unified whole and have had a similar environmental history, but all are also somewhat different because they have been isolated from one another, by the intervening desert, for some time.

If you are interested in a more involved and informed explanation please consider “The Sagebrush Ocean: A Natural History of the Great Basin” by Stephen Trimble or “The Desert’s Past: A Natural Prehistory of the Great Basin” by Donald K. Grayson. These are the best books on the subject. The first is more of an extremely-well curated photography exposition and fluid narrative  intended for layman readers while the second is a scientific treatise valuable to those of us willing to put up with large amounts of dry text in order to find answers to the perpetually recurrent question: “I wonder how they figured that out?”

The thing that most people miss when considering the mountains of the great basin is that these are, although limited in aerial extent, serious kick-ass mountains. The elevation of Wheeler Peak at the tippy-top of Great Basin National Park is 13,063 ft — exceeding the tallest peaks in Idaho, Arizona and Montana and just a bit shy of the top spots in Utah, Wyoming and Nevada (in the Sierra Nevada). When you toss in the associated facts that the great-basin high points are often little used and visited, haven’t anything resembling cell-phone service, are largely lacking in navigable roads to the top-parts (or lower-middle-parts even), have lousy trail systems, and are often only accessed by traveling dozens and dozens of miles on dirt, these can range from daunting to downright intimidating.

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Sep 8 2009

Vegas Au Natural: Beyond the Bright-Lights and Other Bird-Tripping Miscellania

Sunrise in the Valley of Fire

I have a secret.  It goes like this: Valley of Fire.  Now the cat is out of the bag.  One of the great things about living in the west is the stumble-upon factor.  There are plenty of places that make the pages of national magazines (now being rapidly replaced by travel blogs) on a regular basis.  This is due to either: they are really cool places and everyone should spend some time there before their time is up, or they have retained superlative PR teams and have themselves mentioned in exchange for ad spending on as frequent a basis as they and their guests can afford.  The later creates a less than virtuous cycle.

There is an entirely different category of places which are either intentionally not publicized because the people who visit them realize that publicity would bring catastrophe or those that  can’t be monetized (in terms of touro-dollars) usually because there is nowhere to locate a hotel right nearby.

I’m not sure of the reasons why, but the Valley of Fire, located between Las Vegas and Mesquite, Nevada is one of these places which goes without a whole lot of mention. It used to be almost completely unheard of, but is becoming less so of late.  It offers a taste of the Colorado Plateau experience within easy driving distance of the Las Vegas strip.  You’ve seen it a thousand times even if you’ve never heard of it, because it is often used as the setting for television commercial and print ad shoots.

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